Since my first visit in Trinidad, my constant winter-dream was to visit Trinidad independently, and spend some time there. I guess I was a little late; it would seem thousands of people had the same idea as myself in the meantime.
Of course Trinidad still feels like time travelling. You will feel this as soon as you first enter the city, looking at all these colonial houses, the cobbled streets, the music coming from everywhere, the old timers and the horse carts.
Trinidad features a huge eating scene nowadays. Ananda was our best choice, but La Cubita was also one step beyond other restaurants. We liked El Dorado with their terrace tables by the bus station, and El Bucanero. For the only decent espresso in town head to Cuba libre, at the Plaza mayor. And right opposite, you can have some Pinas coladas that will keep you salivating long after your trip to Cuba! There is only one tapas bar in the city, and it can best be avoided.
As for your casa particular, I could nor praise enough La Colina, and Doña Mirta. Breakfast is like ten times richer than you are about to get in other casas particulares, the garden feels like paradise, everybody is very polite and Doña Mirta is a Cuban of the old kind, like you will not find many anymore. Unfortunately, we had to move to La Boca, because the place shuts down for new years’ festivities.
In La Boca, a former Soviet-style Cuban summertime resort, there is absolutely nothing to do apart from cycling (if you can find a decent bike), swimming and relaxing. Which is more than enough of course. The emblematic casa particular is here Casa El Capitan, above and beyond all others, yet without anything really reminding you of the Cuba you may be looking for. Still, very polite hosts, good eating (except the sandwiches that made us both sick), fantastic ocean view and shining rooms. Not far (around 4km) you have Playa Ancon, where you can easily spend the day, although the lack of food and drinks at the whole place is unbelievable. Forget coffee, or snacks. Last but not least, leave the beach before sunset, when the sandflies become aggressive and look for their dinner!
The best meal for me at La Boca was at the restaurant Jaime y Kenia (!!!). You will have to ask and walk your way, but believe me, the lobster here is a must!